APPLICATION BRUSH OR SPRAYER
​[For FLOOR DIRECTIONS, Scroll to bottom]

​PREP WOOD

PEARL STAINS must be applied to raw wood, whether new or refinished. Open up the wood by first sanding with 80-120 grit sandpaper. ​Do not condition the wood. 

​Tip: For large exterior jobs (fences, decking) and fine woodworking (carved wood working), you can apply denatured alcohol instead, but allow it to dry 24 hours before applying stain.

DIRECTIONS

Shake the product well, then apply with a sponge brush, paint brush, or paint sprayer. When using a paint sprayer, strain the stain first and do NOT thin. Product is approx. as viscous as water, so choose your application tools carefully.

ALLOW TO AIR DRY

Drench the wood with Pearl Stain, then allow the stain to air dry. Do NOT apply and wipe back off.

​Dry time varies from 1-2 hours, longer times for large projects, soft woods and in humid or cold environments. To speed dry time, apply in warm temperatures (greater than 60 degrees) with good air circulation. It is okay to use a heat gun or fan, although there may be some lightening of the color if drying is sped too much.

TOPCOAT

When product is dry to touch you can apply a Pearl topcoat of your choice.
​Each topcoat has its highest and best use, check out our suggested use so you can determine the correct topcoat. 

TIPS

  • ​To maintain color purity, do not work out of the can of stain, pour what you need into plastic container.
  • When buying several containers for one job, pour them into a larger plastic bucket, to avoid batch discrepancies.​
  • Do not store in metal containers.
  • Do not apply when it's below 50 degrees.
  • It is okay to use a heat gun or fan, although there may be some lightening of the color if drying is sped too much.

FLOORING PROJECT
[For Brush or Spray Instructions. Scoll to top]

​PREP WOOD

PEARL STAINS must be applied to raw wood, whether new or refinished. 
Sand the floors with 80 and then 120 grit and vacuum the dust. Sanding to 220 grit may seal the wood and keep floors from "taking" the stain. ​Do not condition the wood. 

  • To open the grain, the suggested method is water popping them. 
  • Stains themselves will not pop the grain. 
  • Do not precondition or pretreat the wood. Bleach may affect the final stain color. 
  • If using several containers of stain, mix into a larger bucket before applying. 
  • Mix stain well before and during use to ensure consistency.​
METHOD 1: LONG HANDLED BROOM

Tools: Use an empty 5 gallon bucket and a long handled broom.
Using this method 1 or 2 person's can work together.
PREP
  • Pour your stain into a 5 gallon bucket.
  • Edge the floors using a large regular or sponge brush.
APPLICATION
  • Dip the broom into the bucket and lightly push the stain into the wood grain, cracks, and grooves. Unlike most waterborne finishes, the goal is not to wipe on and wipe off, but rather you should flood or evenly coat the wood's surface and then allow the wood to absorb the stain.
  • Work from the back of the room towards the door to work your way out of the room.
  • Work in sections, a few planks of wood at a time. Either tape off the floor into sections or keep a wet edge as you work across the floor, this will avoid overlap marks.
  • *Do not stain half a piece of wood and then come back to stain the other half. Like regular stains, it will be difficult to blend the stain if the product dries mid board, and then you add more stain to the other half.
  • Allow wood to dry fully before applying topcoat.
  • Dry time for floors 2-4 hours.
​
TROUBLESHOOT:
  • As the wood dries, if spots occur where stain was missed, it's important to fix them while the floor is still wet. Use a wet brush to hit them.
  • If foam/bubbles are caused by wood stain agitation, remove them from the wood's surface, don't leave them to dry. ​
​​​TOPCOAT:
  • Allow wood to dry fully before applying topcoat.
METHOD 2: SPRAYER, SQUEEGEE or STAIN MOP
​
Tools: Use an paint sprayer and a long-handled stain mop or squeegee.
This method is is best to work in a two person team.
The team works in sections- one with a sprayer and the other with a brush.
PREP
  • Mix all containers of stain into a large bucket. Strain stain before pouring into a stain sprayer.
  • Edge the floors using a large regular or sponge brush.
APPLY
  • Work in sections, a few planks of wood at a time. Either tape off the floor into sections or keep a wet edge as you work across the floor, this will avoid overlap marks. ​
  • Person 1: Beginning at the furthest corner of the room work in sections 6-12 feet long. Using the sprayer, apply a 4-6 inch pour wide line of stain, drenching the floor in the direction of the grain.
  • Person 2: Using long handled stain mop or squeegee to equalize the stain's distribution. Use the brush to push the finish into all the wood's nooks and crannies. Be careful not to completely remove the stain. Unlike most waterborne finishes, the goal is not to wipe on and wipe off, but rather you should flood or drench the wood's surface and then allow the wood to absorb the stain.
  • Person 1: Pour more product as needed, maintaining at least a 4-inch–wide pour line.
  • Person 2: Then, proceed to ensure product is equally distributed with the brush, as described above.
  • Working in sections, work your way out of the room.
  • Allow to air dry. Dry time for floors 2-4 hours.
​TROUBLESHOOT
  • As the wood dries, if spots occur where stain was missed, it's important to fix them while the floor is still wet. Use a wet brush to hit them.
  • If foam/bubbles are caused by wood stain agitation, remove them from the wood's surface, don't leave them to dry.
​TOPCOAT
  • Allow wood to dry fully before applying topcoat.